When Hervé Lorit took his seat following his award-win at the first Gault&Millau UAE Gala, he was overcome with emotion.
An entire career in F&B, first in kitchens before moving front of house, had led up to that point. A career, like all the best in the industry, making sure other people had a good time. Now it was his turn.
The restaurant manager at Pierre’s TT was recognised for his personable nature with guests, dedication to making sure the dining room is moving smoothly and his natural charm, all going towards making the restaurant a fantastic place to eat.
The Pierre in the name, should you not know, is Pierre Gagnaire. The legendary French chef is one of Gault&Millau’s ‘immortals of French Cuisine’. No pressure on Lorit and his team in Dubai then…
An all-time great
Lorit moved to Dubai four years ago after working around the world. Gagnaire, of course, has a reputation before him.
The restaurant manager said: “Chef Gagnaire is a great mentor, he’s one of the all-time greats. We represent his name here in Dubai and he’s a huge figure.
“I spent some time with him in Paris before moving to Dubai. You know him as a chef, but I realised he’s so humble and approachable, too. His vision for what Pierre’s was going to be matched what I wanted to do, too.
“I have worked in England, Paris, the US… I thought it would be a piece of cake in Dubai, but it’s more difficult sometimes.”
Pierre’s TT is set in the InterContinental Dubai Festival City. Not the most renowned area of the city for dining, perhaps, but one that Gagnaire has called home in some form for years. Previously his restaurant Reflets was in the same spot, and Choix par Pierre Gagnaire is in the same hotel.
The location is not a problem, says Lorit. “We bring something different to Dubai I think. There is more of human touch, but with quality food. Sometimes you get one without the other.
“I grew up in the kitchen and studied as a chef, but once my studies were over I moved to front of house. You think that the chef and the food is the all-important thing when you work in the kitchen, but once you’re on the floor you realise that side of thing is just as important. That’s why it’s great that Gault&Millau is recognising those of us outside of the kitchen, too.”
An incredible night
Lorit was one of six individuals who won awards at the first Gault&Millau UAE Gala at Burj Al Arab Jumeirah. The restaurant, with chef Mathieu Balbino in the kitchen, was one of seven awarded two toques.
The event far surpassed Lorit’s expectations. He said: “The night was amazing – the location was amazing, of course, but the dinner and the quality for 200 people, it was a ‘wow’ moment.
“It’s great for the industry to have Gault&Millau in the country. It’s well known in Europe and if you’re French and get recognised it’s huge. Gault&Millau is really important to me and the award is really for my entire career, not just this year. Not that I’m finished yet.”
Recognition for the team
Lorit is humble enough to know it’s not just him that makes Pierre’s successful. He said: “This is a nice spotlight for the full team.
“You need to be behind the team all the time, it’s not just about telling them what to do, you have to work with them and show them you can do it as well.
“I know it’s not always easy here in Dubai for the team. The hours and the situation for people can be difficult – but you have to try and get them to enjoy it. It’s like a family in this restaurant and almost all of the team has been here since day one.
“We have people from around the world but they’re interested in French produce, French phrases and the French way of dining. That’s really important for guests.
“You need to be inspired by passion – the hours make a dent in your private life, but when you love something it doesn’t matter. I want to give as much as I can, we can’t make Pierre Gagniare disappointed – you need to like your job, you can’t excel otherwise.
Before he goes, back to serve a busy dining room, Lrit has one more tip for those who want to do well in the industry.
“It’s not necessarily about qualifications or experience, what you really need in the dining room is warm characters. If they have personality that makes guests feel welcome and that they’re ‘home’ you will keep those guests. They will want to come back.”
