The dish that changed me: Chef Rahul Rana

Avatara head chef Rahul Rana pays homage to his homeland in northern India while promoting family unity and healthy eating with his version of Dalika

Posted inFeatures

Growing up in the northern reaches of India, Rahul Rana felt the comforting connection between family and food. More than mere sustenance, food was about unity and bringing people together. In his chosen dish, “Dalika” – which he replicates at Avatara – Rana attempts to replicate this feeling, bringing together a communal sharing ethos while paying homage to his homeland.

Indian cooking has always relied heavily on lentils, from khichdi, which is made of rice and lentils, to flatbreads, Maggie noodles, and dahls. Therefore, it was impossible not to feature a lentil recipe on his Avatara menu. For Rana, this meant researching a wealth of lentil-based recipes and deconstructing their ingredient formation, from sourcing the correct produce to plating within a fine-dining setting.

By mixing horse gram lentils with potato and curry, Rana stays true to the core of Indian dahl while incorporating new spices and flavours to modernise a traditional recipe. And, just as he experienced as a young boy in Uttarakhand, the dish today continues to be inspired by the simple yet profound acts of sharing food amongst family, encapsulating the essence of community and gratitude and, as he defines it, the promotion of “wholesome living.”

Rana’s “Dalika” at Avatara
Chef Rahul Rana

“Dalika is a simple dish that celebrates the simplicity of good food and the richness of community connections.”

– Chef Rahul Rana

Rahul and Dalika …

Some people might know this dish as simply ‘lentils,’ but it is far more complex regarding the ingredients that make up the recipe and what it stands for. As with many Indian cooking methods, food is about more than just feeding. It is about family and community. I first noticed that while growing up in the mountainous north of Uttarakhand. I remember eating lentils with my family and feeling the warmth of the bowl and the love around me.

For me, Dalika is a homage to home. It is cooking that tells a story. Therefore, at Avatara, I wanted to respect the original recipe while refining it for a contemporary audience. I tried different lentils but settled on horse gram lentils and mixed this with ragi bhatura for the sauce. There is a finger millet bread that is an excellent source of natural calcium, and pomelo salad with sesame chutney and Jakhiya aloo (wild mustard tempered potatoes) so that the recipe is recognisable but also a twist on the classic “Chole Bhature.”

Avatara Dubai | Vegetarian Fine Dining, located in Dubai Hills

Each element in this recipe is carefully curated to evoke the flavours of home and the vitality of rural life. That is why it is so important. It arrives in the restaurant with a warm bread roll and dipping sauces because it is meant to be enjoyed with your hands, which is a very Indian way of eating and sharing food.

Beyond its culinary appeal, Dalika packs a punch of nutrition, boasting essential minerals like iron, calcium, and phosphorus. These lentils not only tantalise and excite the taste buds but also help nourish the body and promote overall well-being and vitality, which is always at the core of what we are trying to achieve in the restaurant.

Read the 2024 Gault&Millau review of Avatara here

www.avatara.ae; +971 58 143 2867

David J Constable

David J Constable is a British food writer and one of the foremost international restaurant critics. In a career spanning more than 15 years, he has lived in Bangkok, Kansas City, Luca, London and now...