“Alboronía transcended mere taste”, says Paco Morales on the dish that changed him

The famed Andalusian chef of Qabu at One Za’abeel The Link recalls the recipe that transcends mere taste and transformed his entire perspective on cooking

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February marked a significant moment in Dubai’s culinary scene as Paco Morales unveiled his latest masterpiece, Qabu, at One Za’abeel The Link. The anticipation was palpable, especially after Morales’s triumphant three Michelin star win for Noor in Córdoba a few months earlier.

Noor, meaning ‘light’ in Arabic, and Qabu, translating to ‘cellar’ or ‘vault,’ reflect Morales’s unwavering commitment to using only the finest ingredients, a tradition that continues at Qabu.

Qabu is more than just a restaurant; it’s a journey through the rich history and culture of Morales’s native Andalusia. Drawing inspiration from Noor, Qabu weaves a narrative of heritage recipes, inviting guests to savour the flavours of the region’s past with a focus on those recipes created from the 8th to 15th century and which “forever left an undeniable mark on this beautiful region’s architecture, culture, arts, science and way of life.”

Here, the Spanish chef discusses a unique recipe featured on the menus at Noor and Qabu, and one that transformed his entire perspective on cooking.

Qabu, at One Za’abeel The Link.
Chef Paco Morales

“Over three decades ago, my first encounter with Alboronía transcended mere taste; it transformed my entire perspective on cooking.”

Paco Morales and Alboronía in his own words …

One culinary masterpiece that has left an indelible mark on my palate is the exquisite Alboronía. This is a typical dish of central and southern Spain based on vegetables and paprika. It originates from the illustrious era of Al-Andalus and is usually eaten on the Friday of Lent. It serves as a heartfelt homage to Princess Burán.

Remarkably, the recipe predates the renowned ratatouille from France. It seamlessly blends eggplant, zucchini, and red pepper into a symphony of colours and flavours. The key is in the cooking and the slow introduction of the ingredients, cooking the vegetables according to their hardness as they soften at different stages.

The main dining room at Qabu

Over three decades ago, my first encounter with Alboronía transcended mere taste; it transformed my entire perspective on cooking, forever enriching my culinary journey. That is why it is a staple recipe for me. It is featured on the menu at Noor and now at Qabu.

I hope that this particular recipe will help guests gain a clearer insight into the ingredients and recipes of Andalusia. This, in turn, will help them understand me and my approach to sourcing produce in the style I have refined over the years.

www.oneandonlyresorts.com/one-zaabeel/dining/qabu; +971 4 666 1617

David J Constable

David J Constable is a British food writer and one of the foremost international restaurant critics. In a career spanning more than 15 years, he has lived in Bangkok, Kansas City, Luca, London and now...