In compiling the first UAE Champagne Index, the Gault&Millau team delved into the Champagne offerings of 42 of the UAE’s finest licensed restaurants. There was a lot of data examined. Yet from the earliest stages, one venue in particular stood out: Clap.
With a total of 63 bottles from 16 different Champagne houses, the one toque-rated eatery in DIFC provided the greatest variety of all the restaurants examined in the first edition. Yet Clap somehow also managed to offer a largely unmatched level of value, coming in an average second place when every bottle in its cellars was logged by price.
Clap’s sommelier, Jeandre Du Toit, told us what lies behind a truly stand-out Champagne list.
What process do you go through when putting together a Champagne list?
I keep it simple and easy to understand. You also need to have a good mix of crowd-pleasing big brands and some small batch limited editions to excite your audience.
Clap has the most variety in our Index. Why do you think variety is important?
I personally love drinking Champagne throughout the whole meal, and it really is possible to do this as there are so many different styles you can choose from. The main factors affecting the style are the grapes used in production (seven are permitted), how long the juice is left on the lees, the terroir and, of course, the magic final touches of the winemaker or ‘chef de cave’. Our list ticks all the boxes, from light, zesty and refreshing to full-bodied, brioche, nutty and complex.
Your list also offers great value. How is that made possible?
Overall, we keep our margins very low on bubbles. It’s a celebratory drink at the end of the day, so we want it to be fairly priced for guests to fully enjoy it. Beyond that, we have two wonderfully supportive suppliers and enjoy strong relationships with both.
How do you help customers who don’t know much about Champagne to choose a bottle?
I first establish the particular flavour profile they are looking for – is it complex and nutty, fresh, crisp and zesty or something in between? We also consider a price point, and always encourage guests to point out a price point that’s comfortable for their budget.
What’s your favourite bottle on the menu?
It’s very difficult to narrow it down to one as I love them all. That said, my go-to for an entry-level sparkler would be Bollinger Special Cuvée. It’s just got the perfect balance of freshness with a touch of that unique brioche element. On the prestige side, Krug is a dream come true. It’s a blend of 120 different vineyard plots over ten vintages and every time I taste it I discover more depth of flavours.
Why do you think Champagne is such a special drink?
Well, it’s more like a ritual than a drink, isn’t it? That distinctive pop of the bottle. The sound and visuals of the bubbles running up the glass. That explosion of effervescence from the fine bubbles on the tongue. It’s truly just a magical drink that can be enjoyed any time of the day. And as F. Scott Fitzgerald said: ‘Too much of anything is bad. But too much Champagne is just right’.